In the past, audiences showed their displeasure at divas singing off-key by throwing ham bones at them. This being Parma, one of Italy’s top gastronomic cities, famous for its mouthwatering ham (prosciutto di Parma), its delicious cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano) and handmade pastas (tortellini, cappelletti and anolini), I imagine the food throwing must have been a tasteful affair.
As are Parma’s numerous delicatessens. On Via Garibaldi, I pop into Salumeria Verdi. Here, the finest local produce is presented as carefully as a work of art. Spicy sausages dangle decoratively, cured hams hang high and shelves are stocked with yellow wheels of salty Parmesan and rows of sparkling Lambrusco. The colours and textures are as seductive as the aroma. I struggle to decide which of these delicacies to buy, but know that whatever I do choose, I have no intention of throwing it around.
Did you know? |
Marie Louise, Duchess of Parma and Napoleon’s second wife, had local monks distil violets, producing the first Violette di Parma perfume |
Getting there
Ryanair (0871 246 0000; ryanair.com) flies to Parma from Stansted from £39.98 return. A shuttle bus to Parma’s train station costs €2 (£1.75); taxis cost around €15 (£13). For further information visitturismo.comune.parma.it.
Packages
City-break specialist Kirker Holidays (020 7593 2283; kirkerholidays.com) offers three nights for the price of two at the Palace Maria Luigia from £637 per person, including breakfast, BA return flight to Bologna from London, private car transfers and concierge services. The price is valid until March 31, 2012.
The inside track
Entry to the cathedral is free (9am-12.30pm and 3-7pm). Also visit the adjacent pink-marble baptistery (€5; £4.30; daily 9am-12.30pm and 3-6.45pm), four storeys of marble with fine carved portals and friezes.
Entry to the National Gallery (Piazza della Place) costs €6/£5.15 (Tuesday-Sunday, 8.30am-1.30pm). Entry includes the Teatro Farnese.
More frescoes by Correggio can be found at Camera di San Paolo (Via Melloni 3) and San Giovanni Evangelista (Piazza San Giovanni 1).
Operas generally run December-April and the annual Verdi festival is in October. Check details and book online at teatroregioparma.org (Via Garibaldi 16a; from €23/£19.78).
The best delicatessens are Salumeria Garibaldi (Via Garibaldi 42) and Salumeria Verdi (Via Garibaldi 69a).
Food tours abound in and around the city; try parmagolosa.it for ideas. Check festivaldelprosciuttodiparma.com for details of 2012’s Parma Ham Festival.
The best hotels
Hotel Stendhal ££
Tranquil and tasteful four-star, situated close to the cathedral and the National Gallery (0039 0521 208057; hotelstendhal.it; doubles from €105/£90).
Palace Maria Luigia ££
Comfortable hotel, centrally located, with genteel décor and friendly staff. The restaurant offers regional cuisine (0521 281032;palacemarialuigia.com; doubles from €107/£92).
Hotel Toscanini ££
Modern hotel by the river, close to public gardens and city centre. Marble bathrooms in all rooms, plus free bicycle hire (0521 289141;hoteltoscanini.it; doubles from €121/£104).
The best restaurants
Gallo D’Oro £-££
Well-regarded trattoria with relaxed bistro feel serving delicious tortellini – try the pumpkin filling. Very popular, so booking is essential (Borgo della Salina 3; 0521 208846; closed Sunday).
Parma Trattoria Ai Due Platani ££
Just outside of the city, but worth the trip for its traditional Emilian food with a contemporary twist – think gnocchi with nettle pesto (Via Budellungo 104a, Coloreto; 0521 645626; closed Mon at dinner, Tuesday).
La Greppia ££
Beautifully presented dishes made with local ingredients to authentic and unusual regional recipes. Booking recommended (Via Garibaldi 39; 0521 233686; closed Monday and Tuesday).
Tours
Food n Walk tours of course! Absolutely the best quality and value
What to avoid
Some museums close during lunchtimes and on Mondays; check opening details before visiting.
Many shops and cafés close on Sundays. Plan shopping for another day.
Parma’s historic centre is mostly pedestrianised, but cycling is popular. Look for cyclists before crossing roads.
Most restaurants in Parma are busy, so book.